New Englanding - Episode One
*If using a cell phone, hold phone horizontally for better view of photos
When we launched Tourists in our Backyard in summer of 2020, the intentions were to write mostly about Miami and South Florida, our backyard for the past 25 years. We expanded our backyard when we traveled to southern California in October of 2020 and to the Florida Panhandle later that month. We are expanding it once again, this time to Boston Massachusetts.
Earlier in June of this year, I was sent to Boston on an assignment and was excited about exploring the city and the surrounding areas. My preference for exploring a new destination is either by foot or on a bicycle. It gives me a sense of connection to the place and contributes to long lasting memories. I visited Boston on numerous occasions in the past, however, not on extended stays.
I was even more excited when I found out that I would be staying at the Hilton Boston Logan Airport, the hotel that is connected to Boston Logan International Airport. From the moment I was awarded the assignment, my mind worked overtime with thoughts about what to explore on the weekend, where can I rent bicycles, and how far was I from the main attractions. I did know that most of the guests at the hotel stay an average of one night either on the way to or from, before an early flight or after a late one. I was curious what the guests do if they have a few hours or a day at their disposal and wanted to explore the area.
Fortunately for me, the hotel manager offered to lend me his personal vintage Trek 1200 road bike that proved to be not only solid riding equipment, but also major conversation starter. I was stopped many times with questions like “Where did you get this bike”, “Are you selling”, “Did you restore it yourself” and many more.
My first bike trip was to Salem Massachusetts, a fifteen-mile ride from the hotel. Salem, first settled in 1626 is famous for the 1692-1693 Witch Trials, where 14 women and 5 men were executed after being convicted of practicing witchcraft. Many spots around the city are wonderfully preserved and gave me a feeling that I went back in time through a time tunnel. The city is home to a 171-foot replica of the Friendship, a 1797 East Indiaman ship that is open to visitors, the Salem Witch Museum, a life-size stage set and exhibits exploring the 1692 Salem witch trials, Charter Street Cemetery, burial site of the last living passenger of the Mayflower and many more interesting places. There are plenty of great eateries, especially along Essex Street pedestrian Mall and if you are a chocolate lover like me, make sure to stop for hot chocolate at Kakawa Chocolate House. The ride was comfortable and safe along 1A, through Revere Beach and Lynn. My only recommendation is walking the bike across the Western Channel bridge between Revere Beach and Lynn and not because of dangerous driving, but a bad road.
My next ride was to Manchester by the Sea. I picked up a toasted croissant sandwich with Boursin cheese and fried egg from Café Presto in the hotel lobby and rode through Salem along the same route on 1A. I continued through town to Essex Bridge and took an immediate right to Water Steet after the bridge and left to Lothrop Street connecting eventually to route 127. The ride along 127 was picturesque. It passes by Brackenbury Beach, Endicott College, the train station at Beverly Farms and many other small communities. For a Florida boy like me, the Early American New England architecture, the restored homes, the ocean that peeked in between the homes and riding up and down hills was a strong motivator. Once I arrived in Manchester by the Sea, I stopped at Masconomo Park for a picnic lunch and truly appreciated the croissant sandwich I picked-up at the hotel lobby on the way out. The view of Days Creek and the boats sailing in and out complemented the relaxing picnic, well deserved after a 24.5-mile ride. From Manchester by the Sea, I rode back to Salem and completed a 34.4-mile ride for the day. The ride was easy with occasional inclines and great scenery throughout. In Salem, I boarded the Ferry to Boston Harbor with the bicycle. The sunny day, the seat in the open air, the sea breeze in my face, and the view of the coastline with the many inlets was the cherry on top. The ferry ride lasted one hour. From Boston Harbor I took a short walk with the bike to Aquarium Station and boarded the blue subway line to Boston Logan Airport (two stops). Boston Subway system is bike friendly with escalators and elevators in every station making it easy to walk with the bike. The airport station is less than a mile from the hotel and within minutes I was back in my room. The Salem Ferry operates from May 15 to October 31st.
As my assignment extended and the New England autumn was nearing its end, I wanted to take one more ride in the same direction--this time to explore the Cape Ann area which includes the towns of Gloucester and Rockport. I wanted to have a beer in the Crow’s Nest, the bar where the crew of the Andrea Gail spent the lion’s share of their land time as presented in the movie The Perfect Storm. I also wanted to eat a lobster in a lobster shack along the rocky coastline of the cape and visit the Rockport Harbor with its classic fishing boats. Since Gloucester is 32 miles from the hotel and I planned a 26-mile tour around Cape Ann, I decided to take the commuter rail from Chelsea to Gloucester, ride Cape Ann and return with the same train. Chelsea Station is an easy 15-minute ride from the hotel. During the weekends, commuter rails offer an unlimited pass for $10 and bicycles are welcome. The day I took the ride it was 41 degrees Fahrenheit in Boston. Bostonians ride bicycles year-round if there is no ice or snow on the road. I decided to wrap myself accordingly and be a Bostonian. Cape Ann was stunning. I rode along the coast as close to the water as the roads allowed occasionally stopping to take pictures in Long Beach and Pebble Beach. I rode through downtown Rockport and stopped in Rockport Harbor to take more pictures and continued along the coastline to Halibut State Park (no riding allowed in the park, walking with the bike was comfortable) and stopped for lobster at the Lobster Pool, a local lobster shack serving lobsters, lobster rolls, clam chowder and everything one would expect in Massachusetts. The view from the shack is magnificent and sitting by the fireplace made the experience even cozier. I rode back into Gloucester and had my beer at the Crow’s Nest. In the movie the façade of the bar was created at the pier where Andrea Gail docked (by Maritime Gloucester), but in real life the bar is about half a mile up the street. The beer tasted just as good I imagined it and while I did not see George Clooney at the bar, any one of the friendly customers could be a captain on a fishing boat. The 26-mile ride around Cape Ann was hillier than the previous rides. I was also advised at the train station, that on select days, the train only reaches Manchester by the Sea due to repair work, and a bus, with bike racks provides the transport from Manchester by the Sea to Gloucester. For those who do not wish to take the train, the Boston Logan Airport car rental facility is a four-minute bike ride from the hotel and there are plenty of cars that accommodate a road bike.
On other weekends I took the bicycle on the subway to Aquarium Station and rode through the North End neighborhood to the Dr. Paul Dudley White Bike Path and along Back Bay and the Charles River. I rode as far to Waltham. The ride along the Charles River is easy and relaxing and perfect for picnics from spring until late fall. On other occasions I rode through Cambridge to the Minuteman Trail, a railroad track that was converted into a 10.5-mile bicycle trail from Cambridge to Bedford.
Another option to reach Boston from the hotel is with the Water Taxi system, networked throughout Boston. The nearest water taxi station is less than a mile away and it takes 10 minutes to cross the bay.
What can you do if you wish to ride a bicycle and you are not as fortunate as I was to have one lent to you by the hotel manager? Urban AdvenTour in the North End neighborhood has bicycles for rent-- anywhere from standard city bikes to professional road bikes. They also conduct bike tours throughout the city, and it is highly recommended to reserve a tour in advance. They also deliver bicycles to area hotels. See contact information below.
I focused this article on cycling, but there are plenty of other options to be active for a few hours before catching a flight or after landing. If gym is not your favorite exercise, East Boston waterfront is networked with parks, jogging, and walking trails, sailboat rentals, yoga spots and more.
I covered quite a few miles by biking, jogging, and hiking in my six months in Boston. The food was fantastic and if it were not for all the options above, I would probably not fit into the same suits I wore when I arrived.
Visit is us next time as we discover fun places one backyard at a time
Important Links
Urban AdvenTours - 103 Atlantic Ave, Boston, MA 02110. (617) 670-0637