Virginia Key - Urban Heaven
*If using a cell phone, hold phone horizontally for better view of photos
We were first introduced to Virginia Key in April 2007 when our son Ben was invited to perform at Jimbo’s Place (for Jimbo’s 80th birthday party). At the time, the entire area was neglectedand the lack of care was evident from every direction . There was a decrepit, graffiti-painted school bus with the bay peeking between the trees and boats which gave it an illusion of a fun hippy colony from the 60’s.
Fast forward a decade and we rediscovered Virginia Key when we took on cycling as a sport. Riding back from Key Biscayne, we saw significant bicycle traffic entering the Park and we followed it. The Park was a total surprise compared to what we had experienced a decade earlier.
But first, a bit of history about Virginia Key. Prior to 1945, African Americans were not allowed access to any of the two dozen beaches in Dade County (later renamed Miami-Dade). In May of that year, a group of seven community leaders headed by attorney Lawson Thomas, later to become Miami’s first black judge, performed the famous Wade in The Water in Haulover Beach. The intention was to get arrested and create awareness to their plight for beach access. They brought a bag of cash to bail themselves out of jail, but much to their surprise, they were not arrested. Anticipating a surge in post war tourism from Europe, the County decided not to create a public spectacle and allocated a beach for the black community on Virginia Key. On August 1, 1945 “Colored Beach” opened. At first it was accessed by boats and ferries and two years later the Rickenbacker Causeway provided access by car. As a result of the passing of the Civil Right Acts in 1964 traffic to the Park declined and the County transferred the land to the City of Miami. In 1982 the Park was shut down due to budget reasons and didn’t reopen again until 2008 and since then has enjoyed significant activity and use, especially on the weekends.
It is important to note that there are two separate parks on Virginia Key; Virginia Key Beach North Point Park accessed via Arthur Lamb Jr. Road and Historic Virginia Key Park accessed via Virginia Beach Drive. Each park costs $8 to enter by car. One Park is managed by the Miami Parks and Recreation Department and the other by Virginia Key Beach Park Trust.If one wishes to visit both by car, she/he must pay twice. Since there is no barrier between the two parks, one can enter the other park by walking along the beach or through the wonderful trails that I will discuss later in the article.
During the Covid-19 period when there was uncertainty about hosting friends and family at home, we met friends for “Brunch in the Park” and extended our dining room to Miami’s great public parks system. The designated picnic area in the northern section of North Point Park has ample Tiki covered picnic tables, many of them right on the beach with BBQ pits adjacent and large garbage cans. The restrooms are kept clean throughout the day and there are visible lifeguard towers.
The Virginia Key Outdoor Center offers kayak, pedal boats and bicycle rentals. They also offer group kayak or pedal boat outings and yoga classes on the water or on land. The northern tip of the Park is home to Virginia Key North Point Trails, with 21 mountain bike trails at different levels of difficulty. The tip of the trails offers magnificent views of Fisher Island and South Beach.
What we found stunning was the Mabel Fentress Miller walking trail. The trails cover three ecosystems: mangroves, coastal dunes and coastal hammock. The three trails combined total 1.14 miles. We entered the Blue trail across the parking lot from the picnic area/beach restrooms(the trail that runs close to the beach). As the trail progresses it offers clearings by the water. Most of the clearings have a picnic table under a tree with full view of the bay. If I were parachuted blindfolded, without knowing my location, I would have guessed a postcard spot on a Caribbean Island. For those interested in direct access to these dream spots, they can be reached through several parking lots along Arthur Lamb Jr. Rd. Instead of returning via the Yellow trail at the end of the Blue trail, we continued along the beach for several hundred yards and took the first path back into the woods to find ourselves in the Visionary Trail with signs carrying quotes from laureates and important figures in history such as Henry David Thoreau, Martin Luther King, Mohandas Gandhi and more. When we exited Visionary trail, we found ourselves in the Historic Virginia Key Park. The Historic Virginia Key Park is on the southeastern tip of the island and is the original one founded in 1945. Many of the unique amenities are still there: the carousel, the railroad, the colorful beach cabins and more. In 2014, to celebrate its inaugural flight from Istanbul to Miami, Turkish Airlines built the tallest sandcastle in the world(41’3’), replicating famous castles in Turkey and many of the destinations it serves.
The Park also offers covered pavilion rentals for private events. But once again, what took our breath away and was most captivating, was the beach. On a sunny day, with the blue turquoise water, one can easily be mistaken for being on an exotic Caribbean island even though we’re just a few minutes’ drive from Brickell Avenue or Coconut Grove.
We began our walk back and found our way to Mabel Fentress Miller trail and back to our car. The entire hike totaled three easy and inspiring miles and if you do not wish to walk that distance, you can reach it by car and pay the additional $8. As the weather becomes warmer, be sure to bring mosquito repellent with you.
No matter what you decide, please be aware of the bicycle traffic from and to the Rickenbacker Causeway and the famous safety slogan: “2 wheels 4 wheels 1 road 4 everyone”.
Join us next time as we discover Miami, one backyard at a time.