Everglades Less Travelled
*If using a cell phone, hold phone horizontally for better view of photos
We chose to launch Tourists in Our Back Yard with a visit to Loop Road at Big Cypress National Preserve as it was one of our biggest surprise discoveries while travelling on the Tamiami trail.
Like most Miamians, everything we knew about the Everglades could be summarized from our drives along Tamiami Trail or Alligator Alley from Miami to the west coast of Florida and back or taking guests to air boat rides on various spots along US Route 41. During one of these trips we noticed a parallel road with a tall water tower and “Miccosukee Tribe of Indians of Florida” written on it. Curiosity made us turn left and right again into Old Tamiami Trail. Within a short west bound drive, Old Tamiami Trail turned into Loop Road. Our recommendation is to take Tamiami Trail to mile marker 29, make a left at the first turn and a right into Loop Road Cypress National Preserve.
At first, a brief history of Loop Road. This was part of the original Tamiami Trail (Tampa to Miami trail) that was developed in the early 1920s to connect Miami to Tampa and ease the trade between the two cities. A small town named Pinecrest (not to be confused with the Village of Pinecrest)was built with plans of creating another prosperous city like Miami that would feed off the traffic between both sides of the everglades. . At its peak Pinecrest had about 400 residents, mostly loggers and hunters. Due to various political and financial reasons, Tamiami Trail was moved north of the of the original road thus sealing the towns fate.
A few miles further west, the Everglades nature unfolds. Vegetation becomes denser with occasional clearings that reveal the local wildlife, alligators, turtles, exotic butterflies, birds and more.
Seven miles into the leisurely ride with the windows down, stops to enjoy the clearings and visits to campground sites, a scene from the 1930’s unveils: A gas station with old pumps and a 1954 rusty Dodge on the left side of the road. Signs like “Gone Fishing”, “Don’t Feed the Rednecks,” “Pinecrest Service Station” and “We don’t call 911” with a gun hanging below helps set the visitors into the mood of the era. During prohibition, bars and brothels were built in the area and frequented by folks from both sides of the Everglades. It is said that Al Capone owned a brothel and casino in Pinecrest which burned down in 1928. All that is left from the building are the entry steps, and no documents were found to connect Al Capone to the area.
Following the Pinecrest gas station, the road curves left to the south, HOWEVER, it forks with a dirt road that continues straight. A Dead-End sign is posted at its entrance, but we decided to explore it anyway. We drove a Subaru Forrester, though an all-wheel drive is not necessary if the car is high enough off the road. The 0.9 mile dirt road was fascinating; dense vegetation and, at some points, natural canopy is created by lush trees. Butterflies with fascinating colors rested on flowers on the side of the road and flew across. We stopped for a picnic lunch in the back of our SUV (see picture) and during the 30 minutes picnic, not a single car drove by. At the end of the road we found a spot where a car can turn and drove back to loop road.
About a mile west of Pinecrest, we noticed motorcycles parked on the side of the road. A big sign was posted with Lucky Strikes cigarette logo and a large number of bikers walked through a gate on the right (north) side of the road. We arrived at Lucky’s Place. Lucky Cole is local character that requires an entire article just about him. He was introduced to the Everglades by another local personality, Ben Wolfe, in the 1960’s, and resides here full time with his lovely wife, Maureen, since 1994. The area became part of the National Park system in 1974 and private lands were grandfathered in. Lucky purchased one of the private land parcels and developed a career as a Glamour photographer with the Everglades backdrop. He photographs during the week and opens his home to special events during the weekends. That specific weekend he hosted a book signing event for Tim Dorsey who just published a new crime novel titled “Electric Barracuda” about the Everglades with Lucky’s Place earning a mention. We returned for several similar events like book signing, bikers’ weekend or just to hang out with perfect hosts Lucky and Maureen and listen to their captivating stories. The spot is also a great venue for group outings or special events. We suggest befriending Lucky Cole on Facebook to inquire about any scheduled events during your visit to the area.
Continuing westward from Lucky’s place, the paved road ends and continues as gravel road for the next 17 miles. Our next stop was Tree Snail Hammock Trail, less than a mile down the road. The 0.3-mile trail is an easy hike in a dense jungle with sounds and scents that can only be found in such settings. An arborist could probably identify the different plants and trees by the amazing scents. We were simply awestruck by the view and the sounds. Look for color-banded liguus snails grazing on algae on the tree trunks.
We made several additional stops at forest clearings on both sides of the road as alligators peeked out of the water or a turtle slowly crossed the road. Our last stop was at Gator Hook Trail, 22 miles from the eastern entrance to Loop Road and 2 miles before it reconnects with Tamiami Trail. This is a 2.5 mile trail in each direction that goes along old tram roads built in the 1930’s and 1940’s by logging companies to haul trees out of the forest. Be aware that during the wet season the area may be flooded, and the trail passes through shin deep water. Even in the dry season there may be muddy sections in the trail and therefore good hiking shoes or ones you do not mind covering with mud are suggested.
A few recommendations when planning a visit to Loop South
Check the weather prior to visiting. While the area has its charm rain or shine, you may require different clothing or shoes if you plan to hike.
Take plenty of insect repellents, especially if you visit during the summer.
The gravel road does not require all wheel drive vehicles, but due to pot holes, low body cars are not recommended. Please leave the Ferraris at home.
If you are a novice hiker and want to take longer hikes, check with Big Cypress Swamp Welcome Center at 33000 Tamiami Trail East in Ochopee or call 239.695.4758 for recommendations about processional guides.
Take plenty of water and be sure your gas tank is full as there are no gas stations or convenience stores along the 24 miles Loop Road.
Pack a picnic basket. There are plenty of spots to stop for a bite.
Always check with Lucky Cole (befriend him on Facebook) for any special events that may take place at his destination.
Most importantly, we recommend that you stop, take deep breaths, smell the scents of the everglades wild life, enjoy the moment and be thankful for having such a wonderful place to visit only an hour away from our busy environment.
Join us next time as we discover south Florida one backyard at a time