Miami River, Episode One
*If using a cell phone, hold phone horizontally for better view of photos
No story about Miami can begin without mentioning the Miami River. Tequesta Indians lived around the mouth of the river for close to 2000 years until the Spanish began settling Biscayne Bay in the 16th century and built missions along the riverbanks. Fights with the European and their imported diseases eliminated all but a handful of Indians by the 1800’s. In 1891 Julia Tuttle bought the land parcel on the north bank of the river that included Fort Dallas (will be discussed in a future article) and settled in one of its homes. The settlement expanded to become the City of Miami.
My introduction to the River was during my first business trip to Miami in the Mid 80’s when my host took me out to dinner at East Coast Fisheries. The area was fairly neglected with warehouses, fishing boat docks, and repair shops on both banks for the River. Miami Vice was at the peak of its popularity and many of its scenes were shot up and down the river. Despite the area neglect at the time, it stuck in my memory as a romantic site.
When Smadar and I relocated back to Miami in 2018 we felt that after 25 years of living in a house we wanted to experience high rise living in an urban setting where shopping, dining, entertainment and social life can all be accomplished within walking distance. Our broker suggested visiting developments along the Miami River. While we ended up not moving to this area, we discovered a renewing part of Miami that we keep going back to explore.
Our first stop was on the south bank at the Miami Hispanic Cultural Center, 111 Southwest 5th Avenue Miami, FL 33130. The center resides in a neoclassical house built in 1911 by JW Warner, owner of Miami’s first floral company. The home’s fine craftsmanship is evident by its massive columns, porte-cochère, wide verandas, and wonderfully detailed interiors. In 1983 it was listed in the National Register of Historic Places. The center is home to the Miami Hispanic Ballet & International Ballet Festival of Miami, Cuban Classical Ballet of Miami and the Creation Art Center, all organizations that identify and promote professional dance artists of Hispanic descent in Miami-Dade County. During non-Covid times the center hosts numerous dance and musical recitals throughout the year. The center is open for visits and visitors can view the artwork decorating the interior of the house. Certain sections of the house can also be rented for upscale private events. The center is currently hosting the XXV Annual International Ballet Festival of Miami. (August 14 – September 13). Due to Covid restrictions, the entire festival is conducted online. You can view the schedule and purchase tickets for remaining performances online https://www.internationalballetfestival.org/
Right around the corner, at 437 SW 2nd street and S.W River Drive resides another Miami River gem, the Selina Hotel. The hotel built in 1906 is listed with the National Register of Historic places and considered the oldest hotel in Miami. It was recently purchased by the Vagabond Group, joined Selina Hotels Group, and went through an exciting transformation. Made up of cluster of buildings shaded by palm and lignum vitae trees, the grounds are decorated with local art, sitting areas and hammocks. Each building contains several guest rooms that share a common living area also decorated with local art and “findings”. It felt like a hybrid of WeWork and a Kibbutz. I am not sure whether we wanted to work or live there, but we certainly wanted to hang around. The hotel is also home to Casa Florida Restaurant. Due to Covid-19 it is only open on weekends. The restaurant’s indoor dining was closed, but it has a wild pink painted bus with a bar behind it, outdoors seating and a pink camouflage net hovering above helping to shade the tables. We stayed for brunch and were seated in the great lawn area adjacent to the restaurant. Even though it was mid-August, we sat in the shade and a big blower made us feel comfortable. We had the avocado toast and the coconut chia pudding and enjoyed it. There was a sign announcing movie night with 50% off food and a bottle of wine. We were told that there are also Yoga classes and music performances in the lawn area, but since we are in Covid mode, it is highly recommended to check ahead.
Jose Marti Park Boardwalk and suggested picnic spot
Less than a minute walk from the hotel is Jose Marti Park. If you did not stay for lunch at Casa Florida, this could be a great spot to have your picnic lunch. Weekends bring heavy traffic for recreational boating on the river and it is relaxing just to sit and watch. The I-95 bridge crosses over the river and is down river from the hotel. If you are old enough to have enjoyed Miami Vice in the 1980’s, you will fondly recall the same view on numerous episodes.
Just north of the hotel and the Miami Hispanic Cultural Center, 1st Street bridge is being reconstructed. Upon completion (Fall of 2021) one could cross over to the north side of the river and walk along North River Drive to Historic Lummus Park NW 4th Avenue and NW 3rd Street. The only way to get there by foot now is via Flagler street bridge, a 17 minute walk. If you are driving, you can take the 5th street bridge, a 5-minute drive.
Lummus park was created in 1909 as one of the first green spaces in Miami and is listed with the National Register of Historic Places. Most of the buildings and homes around the Park were constructed prior to 1926. The park houses two historic structures, both relocated from other areas.
The Barracks – A limestone structure that served as slave quarters at Fort Dallas, then army barracks during the Seminole wars. It also served as storage for Julia Tuttle family prior to being disassembled stone by stone by the Daughters of the American Revolution and moved to the park in 1925.
William Wagner House – A wooden home built by William Wagner, one of the city’s first pioneers. He arrived in the area in 1855 and built the house on 1145 NW 8th Ave along what is now Wagner Creek. It was relocated to Lummus Park in 1979 during the construction of the Metro Mover.
During our recent visit, the park was closed due to Covid19. The Barracks and WIlliam Wagner House are clearly visible from both North River Drive and NW 3rd Street. Check with the park management at (305) 960-2920 for re-opening updates.
The area along the river is gaining popularity in recent years as established eateries down the street from the Park offer dining opportunities with river views.
Getting There – Getting to Miami Hispanic Cultural Center with a car is easy and parking is free. Parking by Selina Miami River Hotel and Casa Florida is scarce but available through parking apps. One can also take the Miami Free Trolley Little Havana Route to Station #7. The Trolley connects to Miami People Mover at the Brickell Metro Station at 936 SW 1st Ave, the Trolley’s first stop.
We will return with more sites to see along Miami River. Stay tuned as we discover South Florida one backyard at a time.